Repairing Shed Siding

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Ah, Spring! The time for cleaning up all the detritus from winter, the time for wandering around the property, and, unfortunately, the time for discovering all those nooks and crannies that will need maintenance and repair. One annoying issue that often turns up in the spring is rot that has developed on the lowest edges of sheds and garages. Piles of snow, dripping water from eaves, or piles of leaves or plants often cause rot or delamination of the lower edges of plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) that these buildings are made of. Fortunately, this is a very fixable problem, and the BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair has the directions you need. In fact, this book has the answers to almost every home fixit issue you will ever encounter!

If the entire side of the shed is in rough shape, you can replace the entire side. However, usually it is only a lower run of siding that is damaged. To save material costs, simply replace the rotted area.

Remember that siding is typically not rated for ground contact, so make sure siding is not in contact with the ground. If it is, dig out the dirt and perhaps create a drainage feature around the shed to direct water away from the shed. Splashing water from the roof can also age the shed more quickly.

Tools & Materials

Circular saw

Pry bar

Hammer

Galvanized siding nails

Drill

Deck screws

Siding

Trim wood

Exterior caulk

Chalk line

Pneumatic nailer

Work gloves

Eye and earprotection

How to Replace Damaged Shed Siding

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Remove the trim boards and/or batten with a pry bar and hammer to gain access to the rotting portion. The corner boards may also have to be removed. If the battens are in good shape, save them to reuse.

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Determine where the damaged or rotted material ends and snap a chalk line at least 6″ past that point to serve as your cutting line. Where possible, snap chalk lines that fall midway across a framing member.

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Use a circular saw to make a straight cut along the chalk line. The saw setting should be just slightly deeper than the width of the panel (usually about a ½”). It is easiest and safest to make the cuts before removing the fasteners which hold the panels in place. Finish the cut with a jigsaw or handsaw where the circular saw cannot reach. Remove any screws if present and pry off the damaged material.

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Cut 2 × 4 blocking to support the wall studs along the cutout lines. To secure the blocking, use a handheld drill and drive deck screws toe?nail style into the studs. The backers will be used to secure the replacement patch.

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Measure and cut replacement panels using the same size and type material. To allow for expansion and contraction, leave no more than ?” gap between the patch board and the original siding. Apply caulk to the top of the replacement board before attaching. Use screws or nails to fasten the patch. Screws provide better holding power but are more difficult to conceal.

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Reattach trim and then prime and paint all exposed wood surfaces.

Source – BLACK+DECKER Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

TIP: Make corrective repairs to fix problems so they don’t recur. Use a pneumatic nailer to secure appropriate molding to the ledge of the base trim. Here, pieces of ¾ × ¾” quarter?round molding are set into thick beds of caulk on the top edges of the base trim and then secured with finish nails. This creates a surface that sheds water instead of allowing it to accumulate.