LEEK GREEN, WILD MUSHROOM, AND GOAT CHEESE CROSTINI

From The No-Waste Vegetable Cookbook

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

1 baguette (12 inches, or 30 cm), sliced ¼ inch (6 mm) thick on the diagonal
3 tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups (178 g) finely chopped
leeks (dark green leaves only, see Preparation Tip below)
½ pound (225 g) mixed wild mushrooms, finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
¹⁄8 teaspoon ground black pepper
¹⁄3 cup (80 ml) dry white wine
¼ cup (15 g) chopped fresh parsley
4 ounces (115 g) creamy goat cheese (chèvre)

Most recipes tell you to use the white parts of the leeks and to discard the green parts, and over time, this has led people to believe the green parts are inedible. Their leathery appearance suggests they might be tough and fibrous, but underneath the sometimes dirty leaves and wilted ends are the tender tops I consider a high point of leeks, literally and figuratively. A simple sauté with wild mushrooms and a simmer in white wine brings out the characteristic sweetness of leeks, turning them soft and fragrant. Pair them with pungent goat cheese on a toasted baguette, and you’ve got yourself a party-worthy crowd-pleasing appetizer.

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C, or gas mark 5). Spread the baguette slices across a large, rimmed baking sheet in a single layer and drizzle 2 tablespoons (28 ml) of oil over them. Bake until crispy and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of oil and add the garlic and leeks. Stir and cook until the leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper, and cook until the mushrooms are soft and any juices have evaporated, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour in the wine and bring the mixture to a rapid boil for 1 minute, then reduce the heat and simmer until all of the liquid is absorbed. Turn off the heat and scatter parsley across the top.

To assemble the crostini, smear some goat cheese on a slice of toasted baguette and top with the leeks and mushrooms. Serve warm or at room temperature.

PREPARATION TIP

The key to using leek tops is to cut the green leaves off the white stem and wash them separately. As the part of the plant that grows above ground, leek tops gather even more grit than the bottoms and it takes a good scrubbing to make sure you get all the dirt between the layers and inside the creases. If the leaves look especially beaten up, remove and discard the outermost layer; often you’ll find fresher and more tender leaves tucked inside.